Puppy Info

Do you know if you get your male pup neutered on or about the age of 6 months...he most likely will never "hike" his leg in your home?

Having problems with your pup behaving? Cesar Milan "The Dog Whisperer" may be able to help you.  Click here  ngcdogwhisperer.com

If you are considering adopting a puppy, consider how your children will react to this new life in your home. Are your children controlled, taught how to handle a new pup or dog? Children can chase a newborn or young pup or dog and actually terrify it to the point of snapping/biting at your child.

Parvo is a virus, and it is very deadly. It can be transmitted from clothes, hands and shoes into my home...therefore I do not let people handle my babies, this is for their protection as well as my babies. I have never had an outbreak of Parvo at my kennel...and do not want it.    Ever been to a pet shop where everyone handles the pups, puts them down on the floor to "see them play" ?  Do you really want a pup who has be handled by hundreds of people, then you come along and buy it only to find out it has Parvo? Our pups are raised into a small building we call the "Nursery"...no one is allowed in there except my husband and myself. Hospitals do not let the public in their nursery...there's a reason for it ( GERMS ). You cannot "see" the Parvo germ, but its most everywhere. In can be found in feces in your grocery store parking lot, you can be the very one who tracks it into your home. It can be found in your vets office or pet stores who sell pet products  ( where pets are allowed to go in ). I always tell my customers, please wait until your baby has had all its vaccines before you start putting it outside to potty train it, or take it for a walk. A puppy can be trained indoors on Weewee pads or newspapers until it gets big enough to go down steps to go outside. Parvo is probably the #1 fear of ALL dog owners

PARVOVIRUS

Parvo is a virus that is easily picked up and performs a series of life cycles. This nasty virus can easily survive it's enviroment and contamenate again and again with out careful prevention. There are many options you can give when trying to "cure" a puppy of this virus.
The virus is transmitted by oral ingestion of viral contaminated feces. Feces can contaminate the enviroment. This means even walking from one yard to the next with deep tread on boots (with dirt) can transport parvo. Thus infecting the enviroment of the next yard. It takes only a single lick of their fur, eating off the ground, or simply eating the stool for the dog to become infected with parvo.
Upon ingestion by the new host it infects local lymph nodes, quickly multiplies and then via the blood moves to the small intestine where signs of the disease begin in approximately 5-6 days. The virus is extremely deleterious to the lining (mucosa) of the small intestine. The surface of the mucosa is stripped away upsetting crucial barriers and interfering with normal balance of digestive enzyme secretion and nutrient absorption. Additionaly, the normal bacterial flora of the small intestine which aid in digestion are now exposed to ulcerated mucosa, providing a direct route into the blood stream. Fluid loss from both vomiting and diarrhea is dramatic and dehydration ensues. In severe cases of blood lose the dog dies from anemia before dieing of Parvo.
Possible Anemia can form causing the situation to worsen and less likely to resolve. Anemia is the lose of red blood cells and blood content. Anemia can cause weakness, loss of appetite, low immune system, and death from it alone in severe cases. It can cause infection if the puppy starts to win the battle against Parvo and lives longer than a few days allowing the bacteria to mature in the intestine and infect the blood stream. A secondary antibiotic is well worth while if the puppy appears to be recovering from the Parvo.
The onslaught of bacteria and toxins into the blood will ultimately cause death. Precipitous drops in white blood cell (WBC) counts are common and relate directly to the prognosis and outcome of the infection. Ominous drops in white blood cells are attributed to overwhelming degradation of WBC¹s and the direct depressive viral effect on WBC production in the bone marrow. Dogs that survive Parvo tend to have gritty teeth and weaker bones that tend to break very easily from the depression of WBC in that period of time. So even though the dog has gained his nutritional status back as an adult, think twice before hunting with a mouthy one, for his physical status may never be the same.
The incidence of the disease is highest in young dogs and tends to start after the puppy has lost its maternal protection passed on at birth with the first milk (colostrum). This is why it is important not to go by the puppies age for shots, but to go Any age can be infected but, most dogs are infected between the ages of 2-6 months when maternal antibody decreases below a protective level in the puppy. Signs of the disease usually are mild to nonexistent. However, a full blown case of parvovirus untreated can easily be fatal. Certain breeds seem to be more sensitive to the disease; possibly related to their immune system. Generally, a diagnosis is made on the signs of the disease and falling white blood cell counts. Good rapid diagnostic tests are also available at veterinary clinics. Additionally, the virus can be found in the feces by commercial labs using electron microscopy.

Even after the host has appeared cured from this virus, the virus may linger around the enviromenet to infect another host. The virus is extremely hardy and survives for long periods outside its host. The virus will live in the environment up to 6 months and survives winter nicely under a blanket of snow where the temperature is usually around 25-28 degrees F. Extremely cold temperatures prior to snow fall will kill the virus. Sodium hypochlorite (bleach) is the only effective disinfecting agent.

Treatment for the disease is primarily supportive although recently immunotherapy has become important. Historically, dogs were supported by aggressive intravenous fluid therapy to combat hydration and antibiotics given to reduce secondary bacterial infection. Food is withheld until vomiting has ceased. Many veterinarians employ antiemetics to lessen the signs and aid in the control of dehydration. Blood transfusions have been employed to increase the level of globulins, red blood cells and serum protein being lost via the bowel ¹s bloody diarrhea. Most recently, antitoxins and antiparvo serum are showing results. With hospitalization and vigorous support most dogs will survive severe cases of parvo virus. Early detection and aggressive therapy are the key to success.

Prevention of parvo virus is by vaccination. Modified live vaccines are the most effective and continue to be safe. Producing and effective level of protection requires frequent vaccination starting at 8 weeks of age and repeating every 3-4 weeks until the puppy is sixteen weeks old. Some investigators have suggested extending the protocol until 20-26 weeks because of the persistence of maternal antibody in the puppy which neutralizes the vaccine. Currently, annual revaccination is recommended. Recently, it has been suggested that repeated annual vaccination may also produce persistent antibody interference to the vaccination. After the initial puppy series and first annual revaccination, boosters in the future may be recommended triennial or less frequent. A change in vaccine protocol, until further research is done, is not recommended.

Pancreatitis

 This is perhaps the most important of the reasons not to feed your pet human food: the fat content tends to be so high that your animal runs the risk of developing pancreatitis, or inflammation of the pancreas. This is a potentially lethal condition and not easily treatable. Digestive enzymes produced in the pancreas in an inactive state are activated prematurely and begin to digest the pancreatic organ itself. Unlike conditions such as obesity and choking (which you can observe), your pet could be sick with pancreatitis without your knowing. The symptoms, when they manifest, mimic other, often less threatening digestive disorders. The worst foods -- those most like to cause pancreatic problems -- are cheeses and pork products. If your dog were to eat a whole bowl of  cheese dip, for instance, it is guaranteed to develop pancreatitis. A pet's digestive system, while perhaps geared towards eating rodents and feathers and such as we could never digest, is not suited to processing the high volumes of fat which we humans can deal with. Would your  puppy love a bowl of cheese dip? You bet. Could it kill him? Unfortunately, the answer is yes.

Toxic People Foods

Mushrooms- abdominal pain, drooling, liver damage, kidney damage, vomiting diarhea, convulsions, coma, death

Coffee/Cocoa- staggering, laboured breathing, vomiting, diarhea, abdominal pain, tremours, fever, heart rate increase, arrythmia, seizures, coma, death

Raisins — Both grapes and raisins (dried grapes) can cause diarrhea, vomiting,, and kidney failure.

Onions — A chemical in onions can damage a dogs’ blood cells and can cause anemia. One small whole onion could very well be fatal.

Chocolate — Chocolate contains a caffeine-like substance that can be toxic to dogs if to much is consumed. The darker the chocolate, the worse the effect will be. Some symptoms to watch for are excited behavior, increased urination, muscle tremors, seizures and a rapid heart rate.

Macadamia Nuts — Never leave these exotic nuts lying around your house. A compound in them could leave your dog with temporary paralysis in his hind legs.

Sugarless gum – A dog will eat gum every chance he gets. Anything with xylitol, a sugar alcohol can cause a rapid drop in blood sugar in dogs which can be deadly.

Too much bathing won't suit your dog

The only time to bathe your dog is when he's dirty, or on the advice of your veterinary surgeon. The ideal time to bathe your dog is every 6-8 weeks. Overdo it and you'll strip his coat of all the natural oils that protect him against the cold and wet. Only bathe him in fine weather or indoors to avoid the cold ....( you can use a mild human shampoo). NEVER use a domestic detergent or disinfectant, as this will harm his skin. Scented baby wipes are a great way of cleaning your puppy/dog without drying out the skin from too much bathing ! Also, if your dog has been outside and comes back in with that "doggy smell"...there are several colognes made just for your pet. A fabric dryer sheet rubbed over your dogs body will also take away that "doggy scent".

...Fleas...

This information may seem a little verbose, but to control fleas you must understand them.

Fleas are blood sucking parasites which spend 95% of their adult life on your pet. As many as 2000 eggs can be laid by the adult female flea within a few weeks. Eggs are laid on the pet, then they fall off into the carpet, grass, or similar areas. Fleas generally do not live for more than a few months, but reproduce quickly. A blood meal is required prior to egg laying. Fleas generally cannot live long without a blood meal, which means you will not find many adult fleas outside unless the pets stay outside to provide a source of blood. The adult flea comprises only 5% of the entire flea life cycle. Since the adult is the only one we see, imagine how many immature stages are in our house or yards that comprise the other 95%. Eighty five per cent of the immature stages are eggs and larvae. The other 10% is composed of the pupae which is much like a cocoon and is resistant to insecticides.

Most people concentrate on what they see, which is natural of course, but controlling only 5% of the total flea population will never get us anywhere. The solution to flea control is to concentrate on the eggs and larval stages before they develop the cocoon or pupae. The eggs and larvae need the correct amount of humidity, sunlight, and food source to survive. These facts help us to decide where these flea stages may hide. For instance, outside flea eggs and larvae can be found in the shaded, cooler areas. Examples are under tree limbs, bushes, dog pens, under decks ,etc. These immature stages generally cannot complete their development out in the sunny areas of your yard, so there is not point in using flea products in the middle of the sunny yard.

In the house, flea larvae and pupae will be deep in your carpet or just under the edge of furniture, not more than a few inches out of the light. Concentrating on flea control in carpeted areas is the most productive for indoor control. Also it is very important to use flea products on rugs or door mats (indoor and outdoor) where flea eggs may be deposited as the pets sits or stands on the rug.

If you see or feel fleas on you, they are usually the pre-emerging fleas which are the ones coming out of the pupae. Immature fleas can stay in the pupae stage for months until all the right conditions enable them to break out of their cocoon. Young fleas can be hopping and sucking blood within minutes after hatching out of the pupae stage. A common occurrence is when everyone goes on vacation for a few days to weeks then comes back to a warm house only to find that the house is infested with fleas. Actually what happens is that the vibration of people walking around triggers the hatching of the pupae. Usually when people see fleas on themselves it is the pre-emerging flea that has not found your dog or cat. Remember that fleas live most of their life on our pets, they prefer pets over us, so if we find fleas on us, we can believe that we really have problems with immature fleas, eggs, larvae, and pupae. Just killing the adult flea will not solve the problem.

It is also important to remember that not seeing fleas on your pet does not rule them out. We know that cats can groom as many as 75% of the fleas off their body in one day. Sometimes you can see flea dirt, which looks like small curled black specks. This flea dirt is actually flea waste material and is composed primarily of dried blood. When pets are washed they can actually have so much "flea dirt" on them that it may seem as if the pet is bleeding due to the dissolving dried blood.

Products that control fleas are many and varied. Most contact kill products contain pyrethrins or permethrin chemicals. These chemicals are commonly found in pet flea shampoos, mousse products, some dips, and many flea sprays. These products usually do not work but a few minutes and long lasting activity into the next day is poor to none. The best way to control fleas is to use an adulticide ( products that kill adult fleas) and an IGR or insect growth regulator. These products not only kill the adult flea but also prevent the development of eggs into larvae and finally into pupae. Veterinarians are very knowledgeable about fleas and they should be consulted with questions concerning the effectiveness and safety of all flea products.

Some of the newer products to be available to veterinarians for the use on pets have been very effective at not only killing adults fleas but slowing the development of the life cycle. One such product is a monthly pill for dogs and an oral liquid for cats. Promises are that there will soon be an injectable product that will last for six months to help control fleas. Infomercials have also made us aware of a new product that is applied on the skin once a month to dogs and cats. This products is said to kill 95% of the fleas within 24 hours. Another spray product will kill fleas for three months and ticks for one month with just one application. The spray can also be used on cats but will only last for one month on fleas.

There are exciting new products on the horizon to control fleas. Consult us or your veterinarian about the best way to safely control fleas on your pet and its environment. If you have specific questions concerning fleas or their control please E-mail us at this site and we will gladly answer. We use FRONTLINE SPRAY.

 
Ticks

Ticks are very common in south Georgia. The most common ticks found in that area are the Deer Tick, Brown Dog Tick, and American Dog Tick. Ticks can be found almost anywhere, but primarily in grass, woods, or bushy areas. You generally do not see the tick when they crawl onto you or your pet but soon the tick has imbedded its mouth parts into your skin and becomes firmly attached until it is removed.

Dogs, cats, and humans are commonly affected by ticks. Since dogs frequent the areas tick live, they are the most affected. Ticks attach themselves to the skin in pursuit of a blood meal. Late spring, summer, and early fall are the times of the year we see most tick infestations. Some ticks can live up to two years, survive temperatures below freezing and lay up to 5,000 eggs.

Ticks are important not only to dogs and cats but to humans as well, for ticks can transmit diseases that can be harmful or even fatal to pets and humans. The most common tick transmitted diseases in our area are Lyme Disease, Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, Canine Ehrlichiosis, Ehrlichiosis in Humans, and Human Granulocytic Ehrlichosis. By far the most common condition seen in our area is Tick Paralysis. Some dogs are especially sensitive to a toxin (poison) found in the saliva of the tick. This toxin paralyzes the nervous system to the point that the dog can no longer walk. Most cases are treatable and recovery is usually uneventful. However, in some cases the dogs become over heated due to their inability to get out of the sun, or can be injured if near the road. Deaths have been seen as an indirect cause from Tick Paralysis.

Ticks are difficult to kill and many products that claim to have an effect on ticks do an ineffective job. Special tick collars, sprays and topically applied chemicals are used to control ticks. Before using any product against ticks it is best to consult our office or call your regular veterinarian for specific instructions.

Since humans can also get diseases from ticks it is best not to remove the tick with you bare fingers. The use of tweezers or special inexpensive tick removal devices are the best way to remove ticks. Removing ticks incompletely may allow portions of the mouth parts or head of the tick to remain attached to the skin. Infections and scar tissue that may never go away can be the result of ineffective tick removal.

Spaying & Neutering

If you are a responsible caring dog owner, there are many very good reasons to consider spaying and neutering your dog(s), and very few good reasons not to.
 

• Prevents prostate and testicular cancer (dogs).
  
   
• Prevents Pyometra, a serious and potentially fatal infection of the uterus, most commonly seen in unspayed females  6+ years of age.
  
   
• Greatly reduces the rate of uterine and breast cancer (in females) when done before the first (or second) esterus cycle.
  
   
• Reduces inter-male aggression (dogs).
  
   
• Reduces dominance aggression towards people (dogs).
  
   
• Reduces urinary "marking" (of vertical objects such as furniture.)
  
   
• Reduces "mounting" behavior, and sexual frustration.
  
   
• Reduces roaming.
  
   
• Prevents false pregnacies (females).
  
   
• Prevents unwanted litters. (It is truly amazing what some dogs will do in order to mate with a female dog who comes into "season". Some dogs will dig under fences to get to another dog, while some have even managed to mate through chain link fences!)
  
   
• Prevents neighborhood dogs from camping outside your home waiting for the opportunity to mate with your female dog.
  
   
• Keeps you from having to keep your dogs away from playing and socializing with other dogs for a total of six weeks each year.

SIGNS OF PYOMETRA:

LETHARGY

LACK OF APPETITE

DRINKING AND URINATING EXCESSIVELY

VOMITING

DEHYDRATION

FEVER(20 % OF CASES)

SHOCK

ABDOMINAL DISTENTION AND/OR TENDERNESS

I recommend that a female be spayed for this reason.

Housebreaking

Crate Training

A rule of thumb about size if you're using the crate for housetraining: the crate should only be big enough for the dog to comfortably stand up and turn around in. You don't want the crate so big that the dog will mess at one end and sleep at the other. For large-sized breeds that will continue to grow substantially, you may need to buy a larger size later on if you intend for your dog to continue using the crate after it is housetrained. (If you already have bought the size crate you think your dog will fit into when grown...and it's too large for your puppy now....just put a plastic container in the back of the box so that puppy only has sleeping room. When pup is finally grown (or housebroken) you can remove the plastic container)
 

Listed below are things vets have told me over the  years of being a breeder, things I have collected from the internet, friends have told me,  books  &  etc. to educate those who are unaware of some of the things you have to know if you are thinking of adopting a pup.

              Customers have told me these things work  for fleas ( and I have tried some of them )

              Johnson's Baby Shampoo

              Head & Shoulders Shampoo.... really does work! (I have tried this)

             (Frontline Flea Spray works better than anything I have ever tried).

             Dog in heat, dripping blood on bedclothes? Soak in Peroxide...WORKS WONDERS!!!  (also works on human blood stains & other stains)

                    If your dog gets into "oil" or "grease"...wash with "DAWN"  dishwashing liquid. It will remove all oil and grease.

                   Always keep "Anti-Freeze" away from your dog...it will kill.

Things I have found that works !

(these things don't take the place of a vet...but help in an emergency ...these things worked  for me ).

"Lotrimin Liquid Spray" worked for me on a dog that had hair loss from a fungus....also kills ringworm on a dog or human.

"Paramite"...works for fleas, ticks, and sarcoptic mange on a dog . ( Make sure you wash your hands and arms with hot soapy water and rinse well if you use this ).

Flowers Of Sulfur is good if you can't get to a vet at once for a cut on a dog ( and its not too severe ) ..just fill the cut with this powder...works wonders!

Adams Flea Mist kills not only fleas...but dog lice.

                      We recommend Jeffers for your pets needs:

The following items are suggested BEFORE you take your new pet home ...and can be purchased thru Jeffers

             Call ( 1-800-Jeffers ) and ask for the "Free" Pet Catalog.

DK-CP  Classic Large Kennel  26" x 18 1/2" x 16"      

I housebreak my dogs in a Carrier. I only use this for night-time  ( when pups are too small to sleep on my bed, without falling off ), I take them out first thing every morning and change their bedding ). I use this size because I don't want my babies to feel "cramped"....when pup is very small I put a large plastic container in the back of the carrier to take up space...when pup grows, I remove it.

G6-AD  Wire Crate, 42"L x 26 1/2"W x 30"H (Black)   

• EXTRA HEAVY-DUTY DOOR & front
• Special HEAVIER-GAUGE WIRE latch on door features dual securing points 
• ONE-HANDED OPERATION
• Drop Pin Corners for easy setup
• Rust & corrosion resistant
• Black Epoxy with plastic pan

Wee-Wee Pads...Puppy Housebreaking Pads

Heavy-duty, super-absorbent, scientifically treated pads that attract your puppy when nature calls. Plastic lined. Can be used outside after the inside training is completed. Each disposable pad is 23" x 24".

39-W6  Wee-Wee Pads, 100 pads 

Frontline® Spray for dogs, cats, puppies & kittens

(Merial) Contains Fipronil for a fast & effective way of elimination large flea & tick infestation already on your pet. Kills 98-100% of adult fleas within 24 hrs, ticks within 48 hrs & control lice infestations within 48 hrs. Aids in the control of sarcoptic mange in dogs. Can be used on kittens & puppies from 8 wks of age. Provides up to 6 wks protection for cats & up to 4 wks protection for dogs.

 WV-FA  Frontline® Spray, 250 ml  

 WV-FB  Frontline® Spray, 500 ml  

We find that the Frontline SPRAY works better than the drops or  flea/tick collars. 

This product REALLY works for our babies!

PLEASE have your pet micro chipped...and also tattooed. Never have the tattoo put in the ear. A thief that gets your baby can cut the ear off to get rid of the tattoo and sell your baby...always get the tattoo on the stomach or inner thigh. Some animal shelters cannot afford the microchip scanner which is around $250.00 because they rely solely on donations (and cannot afford it).

Fellow Breeders links.....

DOGWOOD KENNEL.....Gray, Ga.

      ROCKRIDGE KENNEL.....Macon, Ga.

               PAWPATCH KENNEL....Indian Springs, Ga.

    RUTHIE'S TOY PUPS....Jackson, Ga.

This Page Last Updated:

Saturday February 23, 2008 02:29 AM

                                                                                                                                       Copyright 2008 inclusive Freeman Byler and Doughty Valley Kennel.